Friday, November 20, 2009

Where the Streets Have Changing Names

I lived in Prague for a couple of months in, when was it, 1993? '94? Oi, something like that.

Anyhow, it was a few years after the Velvet Revolution, and things were definitely in a state of transition.

And I remember this: you'd get into a taxi and tell the driver the name of the street you wanted. Say, for example, Ulica Londynska. The taxi driver would listen to you sound it out, and when he finally figured out what the hell you were saying (it sometimes took a few tries), he'd then look it up on a cross-referenced book, and recognize it only as its earlier incarnation known by another name.

It turns out, that after the Soviets packed up and went home, one of the first things done was to change the street names back to the way the Czechs had them in the first place.

Poor taxi drivers.

Thursday, November 19, 2009

Remembering the Velvet Revolution

There was, among some, an unsettled disbelief.


Yet the crowds in the Main Square continued to swell, the growing swarms ballooning into the small arteries and alleyways that fed off of the already-packed plaza. Thousands upon thousands flocked to the center of the city, ignoring the circles of police outfitted in riot gear ready to stand against them. They were believers, all of them.


The disbelievers, the unsure, huddled in their bloc apartments, tuning into their televisions and transistor radios to determine how this might all end up. State broadcasters dished party line propaganda, if any information at all, but they tried to glean something from the tone.


I met Roman when he was 22, five years after the Velvet Revolution had unchained Czechoslovakia from Soviet control. It was my first visit to Slovakia, and we went on foot through the center of town (Bratislava), ending at the Square of National Uprising, where those demonstrations a few years before had eventually moved. I asked him if he had been there among the crowds during the Velvet Revolution.


He told me that at first, he had not.


"We really weren't sure what to think," he said. "I didn't think it would last. I was scared to believe it."


 Then--he didn't know what--but something shifted, and he found himself joining in the crowds. The numbing sounds of the mass of demonstrators was everywhere, as they rattled their keys in the air and shouted repeatedly "Unlock the door, let freedom in! Unlock the door, let freedom in."


At 17, Roman became part of a human tsunami of peaceful change.


I asked him what it felt like.


"Euphoric," he said, shaking his head. "Absolutely euphoric."

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Jacks


My dog constructs blanket coves on sofas. What does your dog do?

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

For the less discriminating among us....


(Velky Biel, Slovakia--near Trnava)

Saturday, November 07, 2009

My Piece of the Wall


There is so much media around the Berlin Wall that it seems overkill to write anything about it.

My friend Johnny the Cameraman is in Berlin now, having joined the bash of reporters covering it. Ugh, he says.

But I remember 20 years ago being in the newsroom when the photos started coming in. There's one in particular I remember that I may write about later, but as for the Wall, I remember this:

Driving on I-95 at the Baltimore toll and hearing an excited reporter on the radio trying to shout his report above all the commotion: "They're tearing down the Wall!" And then "People are jumping up on the Wall, they are on top of the Wall! They're dancing on the Wall!"

I pulled the car over and had a little cry.

My honeymooning friends Diane and Bryan went to Europe sometime after, and chipped at the Wall while they were there. They brought bags of it back, and gave pieces away to friends. I don't think they could ever know how much these two little pieces of concrete have meant to me--it represented what my life was to become a few years later--traipsing around the former Soviet bloc, trying to help fellow journalists overcome the damage of oppressive Communism; and listening as they told me stories of their lives. Thanks, Diane and Bryan.



Sunday, November 01, 2009

Wild Sau Dirt Run... and MUD!!!

Yesterday, Georg Melzer (brother of a friend of mine) hosted Austria's first ever "Wild Sau Dirt Run" --a mud-caked, 10k, obstacle course in the mountains of Niederoesterreich.
It was just some idea he thought of a couple of months ago. So he laid out the course, got the word out, printed some flyers, and everything else you have to do get 350 people to run in the mud. The TV stations showed up, and emergency services were on call.

Seeing as Halloween isn't really celebrated in Europe, it was a nice surprise (for an American) to see Superman, Batman, Vikings and Cows enter the race.

Here's a look:



At the start of the event, everyone is clean. Including the cow-- proudly showing off his utters -- and Superman.


But let the games begin....













 Superman ahead of the pack, but looking brutalized.




A viking lends a hand





A muddy ballet






Mud. Mud. And More Mud.











Along with haystacks to climb, there were also logged trucks to get over, and rubber tires to wend through.









Friday, October 30, 2009

A Virginia Beach Halloween Party, 1970s


Halloween Party at the McCrackens
Virginia Beach, Va., circa 1971

I'm on the far right (blue dress, green blouse. I was supposed to be Little Miss Muffet (?)
My sister is the gypsy (long, black wig, red scarf on her head).
My birthday is 10 days before Halloween, hers is 10 days after, so my mother decided to have a Halloween party to celebrate both (we are the two youngest of six).
Although, it's clear from the pic they were mostly her friends (was I tag along kid sis, or what?)

Thursday, October 29, 2009

David Sedaris, On Halloween

From Dress Your Family in Corduroy and Denim Copyright 2004 David Sedaris

The night after Halloween, we were sitting around watching TV when the doorbell rang. Visitors were infrequent at our house, so while my father stayed behind, my mother, sisters, and I ran downstairs in a group, opening the door to discover the entire Tomkey family on our front stoop. The parents looked as they always had, but the son and daughter were dressed in costumes—she as a ballerina and he as some kind of a rodent with terry-cloth ears and a tail made from what looked to be an extension cord. It seemed they had spent the previous evening isolated at the lake and had missed the opportunity to observe Halloween. "So, well, I guess we're trick-or-treating now, if that's okay," Mr. Tomkey said.

I attributed their behavior to the fact that they didn't have a TV, but television didn't teach you everything. Asking for candy on Halloween was called trick-or-treating, but asking for candy on November first was called begging, and it made people uncomfortable. This was one of the things you were supposed to learn simply by being alive, and it angered me that the Tomkeys did not understand it.

"Why of course it's not too late," my mother said. "Kids, why don't you . . . run and get . . . the candy."

"But the candy is gone," my sister Gretchen said. "You gave it away last night."

"Not that candy," my mother said. "The other candy. Why don't you run and go get it?"

"You mean our candy?" Lisa said. "The candy that we earned?"

This was exactly what our mother was talking about, but she didn't want to say this in front of the Tomkeys. In order to spare their feelings, she wanted them to believe that we always kept a bucket of candy lying around the house, just waiting for someone to knock on the door and ask for it. "Go on, now," she said. "Hurry up."

My room was situated right off the foyer, and if the Tomkeys had looked in that direction, they could have seen my bed and the brown paper bag marked MY CANDY. KEEP OUT. I didn't want them to know how much I had, and so I went into my room and shut the door behind me. Then I closed the curtains and emptied my bag onto the bed, searching for whatever was the crummiest. All my life chocolate has made me ill. I don't know if I'm allergic or what, but even the smallest amount leaves me with a blinding headache. Eventually, I learned to stay away from it, but as a child I refused to be left out. The brownies were eaten, and when the pounding began I would blame the grape juice or my mother's cigarette smoke or the tightness of my glasses—anything but the chocolate. My candy bars were poison but they were brand-name, and so I put them in pile no. 1, which definitely would not go to the Tomkeys.

Out in the hallway I could hear my mother straining for something to talk about. "A boat!" she said. "That sounds marvelous. Can you just drive it right into the water?"

"Actually, we have a trailer," Mr. Tomkey said. "So what we do is back it into the lake."

"Oh, a trailer. What kind is it?"

"Well, it's a boat trailer," Mr. Tomkey said.

"Right, but is it wooden or, you know . . . I guess what I'm asking is what style trailer do you have?"

Behind my mother's words were two messages. The first and most obvious was "Yes, I am talking about boat trailers, but also I am dying." The second, meant only for my sisters and me, was "If you do not immediately step forward with that candy, you will never again experience freedom, happiness, or the possibility of my warm embrace."

I knew that it was just a matter of time before she came into my room and started collecting the candy herself, grabbing indiscriminately, with no regard to my rating system. Had I been thinking straight, I would have hidden the most valuable items in my dresser drawer, but instead, panicked by the thought of her hand on my doorknob, I tore off the wrappers and began cramming the candy bars into my mouth, desperately, like someone in a contest. Most were miniature, which made them easier to accommodate, but still there was only so much room, and it was hard to chew and fit more in at the same time. The headache began immediately, and I chalked it up to tension.

My mother told the Tomkeys she needed to check on something, and then she opened the door and stuck her head inside my room. "What the hell are you doing?" she whispered, but my mouth was too full to answer. "I'll just be a moment," she called, and as she closed the door behind her and moved toward my bed, I began breaking the wax lips and candy necklaces pulled from pile no. 2. These were the second-best things I had received, and while it hurt to destroy them, it would have hurt even more to give them away. I had just started to mutilate a miniature box of Red Hots when my mother pried them from my hands, accidentally finishing the job for me. BB-size pellets clattered onto the floor, and as I followed them with my eyes, she snatched up a roll of Necco wafers.

"Not those," I pleaded, but rather than words, my mouth expelled chocolate, chewed chocolate, which fell onto the sleeve of her sweater. "Not those. Not those."

She shook her arm, and the mound of chocolate dropped like a horrible turd upon my bedspread. "You should look at yourself," she said. "I mean, really look at yourself."

Along with the Necco wafers she took several Tootsie Pops and half a dozen caramels wrapped in cellophane. I heard her apologize to the Tomkeys for her absence, and then I heard my candy hitting the bottom of their bags.

Wednesday, October 28, 2009

1930s Halloween, Virginia


My grandmother (Sadie) in her Halloween costume in Java, Virginia (Spotsylvania County). It would have been sometime in the late 1920s or early 30s. I'm guessing she was Peter Pan?

Have You Paid Your Angel Taxes?


Where the devil is the Devil Tax?


(Trnava, Slovakia)

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Kub Scouts, Kakes, and Freddy Krueger (and Happy Halloween!)

Best thing about Facebook? Reconnecting. Karee Galloway and I have managed to stay in touch through the years since high school. But until seeing FB photos, I didn't realize how fully devoted she is to her son, and the happy activities they participate in together.

For example, baking cakes.



At the Galloways' Cub Scouts troop, they recently had some kind of bake-off, crafting yummy cakes of all kinds.
The severed hand, featured above, is an all-occasion cake. My two cents is that the mice and spider crawling through the mucky blood is overstated. Overkill, if you will. But that's just me.



I'd guess that this cake would be about right for a Sweet Sixteen. Or a prom.


Fifth Wedding Anniversary (Gift: Paper. Cake: Hairy Eyeball)



And below: Birthday or Funeral...


And finally, let's not forget the Cub Scout salute to horror.


Monday, October 19, 2009

On a Clear Day, I Can See Sort of Okay

I'm on the Mariahilfestrasse in Vienna and I pass by a glasses store, an optician, a "spectacle shop," if you think in British English.

I haven't had my eyes checked in years, and type is getting smaller and smaller these days.

So I think, hmmm, maybe I'll do the right thing for myself and get that vision tested.

Click, click, click forward. Is this better? Click, click, click backward. Or is this better?

Is this better? Or is this better.
Is this better? Or is this better.

The optician rolls his chair back, turns the lights on and gives me back my specs.

"These are okay, but..."

"But what?"

"Well. You need reading glasses."

I make him say it again.

And then I politely ask if he's smoking crack.

No, he says, not during work hours.

I tell him the dream I had last spring about sitting on the floor eating a big bag of carrots.

He laughs and tells me I should have eaten the carrots.  He signs the lens rx and hands it back to me.

"There is another option," he says. "You could get bifocals."

Arsloch.

Judgment Day in Vienna

Feeling uncharacteristically like a grown up today.

Just had a meeting at the media office of Bundeskanzleramt, (Chancellor's office).

It was for them to decide if I was worthy.

Ask my mother, I say.
Oh, wait. Don't.

When I entered, I saw spread on the table various aspects of my life: my resume, my housing registration forms, a copy of my passport--you know, just every day things that make you somebody in this world.

Oy. Was it enough? Suddenly unsure. My resume--maybe it should come with an interpretive dance, performed against a video backdrop of the countries I've worked in, complemented by an editor's voiceover.

We go over to the computer so they can google some articles I've written.

What pops up? Yodeling and Fingerwrestling.

"I also write serious ones," I say, trying to sound serious.

I try to guide them to the recent one about the Nazi trial in Germany, but they gravitate instead to yodeling. The printer begins to hum.

The one about Vietnam motorbikes comes up on the screen. Good. I like that one.
I tell them about the cool video that goes with it, hoping it'll up my profile a bit. Improve my rep. But I can't get any traction with it.

So the highest media authority in the country now has this on file for me, representing my body of work:
• A story about a commie car
• A story about yodeling, and
• A piece showcasing large men pulling each other across tables with a single finger.

Friday, October 16, 2009

UFO-Friendly Slovaks


Facebook viewers, click "See Original Note" to view pic.


Bratislava, Slovakia, view of the Novy Most,("New" Bridge) and self-explanatory parking sign.


I saw this on my way into Bratislava for a meeting this morning.

Yes. You read it right. UFO parking. My mother would be thrilled they now have designated spaces, as she talks non-stop about the one she is sure she saw parked in our Florida backyard.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Art for Everyone


Storefront in Trnava, Slovakia.

Monday, October 12, 2009

Hitler Heil'ing Gnomes


Photo: Werner Scheuermann


German artist Otmar Hoeri and his gnomes make a statement.

There's Easy Street, and Then There's....


Thursday, October 08, 2009

Tired of the Strain, Part II

In Germany these days, any tiny little misstep will get you fired, as employers try to lighten their financial load.

Meanwhile, I continue to shake the money tree and nothing comes out. One client, which has a staff of 30, says they've paid the 300 past due to me, but couldn't do it from their account. I guess I can kiss the bulk of the money they still owe me goodbye.

Tuesday, October 06, 2009

Flattened by influenza. Will post again when I'm back on my feet.

Saturday, October 03, 2009

Tired of the Strain

I do a little editing for a company that brings in a couple of hundred a month. Not much, but the work is quick and straightforward, and I like the people I deal with. The company is small, about 30 employees. Small, but not tiny.

I got an email yesterday telling me that they were going to be late paying me (for August work) because they didn't have the money (280 dollars), but hoped they'd be able to next week. Since I'd already agreed to do a rush job for them this weekend, I asked if I should stop that job, seeing as how they can't pay me what they currently owe. After the boss assured me all would be okay, I decided to continue on. But with a heavy heart.

They can't pay 280 bucks? What is this? Bizarro World?

This is just a small slice of what's going on in the industry, since there are several other organizations that haven't ponied up cash and are lawsuit late, and we ain't talking 280 bucks.

What's there to say? I feel like I'm 15 again, counting out the measly dollar bills from what I earned babysitting. Except I got paid then.

Wednesday, September 30, 2009

The Many Miles of Slovaks


When I first came to Slovakia back in 1995, it was a little something like this:

STORES: Closed on weekends after 12 pm Saturday.

CARS: Boxy old Skodas and Trabis, spitting and sputtering plumes of black smoke.


TELEPHONE BOOKS: No.

OLD TOWN: Battered to the bone. No one who has seen it today would believe me, but a couple of coats of paint would have been welcomed with a parade. These days the Old Town looks like a shiny, mini-Vienna.

HOSPITALS/AMBULANCES: Old VW Buses that swung by and threw the poor sod in the back. No 911-type  number, and no ER.
When the Slovak president's daughter called ahead to the hospital to tell them her father was in severe, post-surgical abdominal pain and was on his way to the hospital (in the night), the receptionist hung up on her. When the prez got to the hospital with his driver, the doors were locked and they had to whisk his motorcade across the border into neighboring Austria to get care.



and then there was TRAVEL:
The capital city of Bratislava borders Austria.

But in 1995, although the Iron Curtain had been down for six years, Slovaks still needed a visa to get there. I don't think it was hard to get, but costly. So Vienna, only 35 miles away, was off-limits.

At that time, it wasn't lost on me that I had traveled freely nearly 4,500 miles to teach people, who in turn, couldn't bicycle half a mile without getting government permission to go farther. And that, a vast improvement over what it had been just a couple of years before--which was an electrified, barbed fence and a gun in your face.

 FAST-FOWARD to THIS WEEK: I'm teaching a beginning journalism class to freshmen and sophomores at a Slovak university. To break the ice I shout out to them (there are a LOT of them!): What changed your life? What changed your life? What changed your life?

One said her Spanish boyfriend, another said working as an au pair in London, another the months living in Switzerland, another a trip to Istanbul, another a summer in Paris, another a month or two in Ireland...

It was stunning.

"You're parents must be extraordinarily grateful that you can see the world."

They nodded 'yes.'

Monday, September 28, 2009

Guten Tag and Let Me Slap That Ass

A couple of years back, two kids in Oregon were convicted of sexual harassment for running up and down the hallway at school and slapping butts. If it weren't for a sensible court that intervened and dismissed the charges, the kids would have had had records as sexual offenders. They were, like, 12.

Ahhh, the Austrian Supreme Court is miles ahead of ole Oregon. It ruled last week that ass-slapping is not sexual harassment, since no genitalia is involved.

It's practically a handshake.

Or in Europe-speak, an air kiss.

Hmm.
So where does this leave us? My friend Georg says that maybe it depends on the size of the ass. For example, an ample rear end, of which there are many here, would leave any hand contact on the buttocks well-removed from the dangerous genitalia zone on the other side. Sometimes acres away.

But then there are the Kate Moss types, the skinny sticks who have no rump, leaving an ass-slapper dangerously close to Genitalia (and without a passport, of course). Austrian Court: any ideas?

Sunday, September 27, 2009

The Little Engine That Could(n't): The Trabi is Back

An item I wrote last week for the Christian Science Monitor on the trusty little Trabant--it's back, baby!

Thursday, September 24, 2009

Remi's Mayberry, Austria


(FB Viewers: Click "Original Post" to see photo)
Remi, the only four-legged allowed at the salon, waits in a customer's lap while I get my hair cut.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

A Fawn at Mid-Morning

This morning Remi and I went for our walk, this time a bit closer to the house, but still among the farmers' fields.

I held onto Remi as a fawn crossed in front of us, certainly no more than three yards. The fawn jumped over some crops, then tripped and fell onto her back. We watched as she scrambled to upright herself, and then as she sat for a minute, appearing to take in the view. She finally got to all fours, looked at me as I clutched Remi to my side, and turned around and trotted slowly to the edge of the woods. Here is where this little deer stopped, turned herself toward us, and watched as we continued along the dirt road.

Monday, September 21, 2009

No Photo? Try Words! ... Thanh Nien Innovates

Yea, yea. I should be doing my research. But don't you want to look at this pretty page?


This Thanh Nien Daily front page ran just a few days after the newspaper was launched. The editors were really worried because they didn't have any good photos to run with their big finance story. So... voila!! I showed them how to make it work with typography! It was really fun to see how happy they were with the results, and I think it got a few extra rounds of beer bought for me that night (after work, of course!).

Sunday, September 20, 2009

A Lotta Oompah, and a Troubled Jack Russell

Poor Remi.
There's a village funeral going on today, which means lots of oompah music, punctuated by ringing church bells. It goes on for a couple of hours. There'll be these long breaks and then... BAM! The BAND STRIKES UP AGAIN!

For Remi it may as well be mortar attacks--she hates it. Terrified. Her tail is tucked between her legs today.

But she should be grateful we no longer live in Maastricht (Netherlands), home to Europe's largest number of brass bands. The Dutch looooooove their brass bands as much as they love their doobies. And love to practice at random hours of the night (might this have something to do with the tokes they take?)

Anyhow, I learned this because I rented an apartment right smack along the favorite marching band route. I'd sometimes see Remi's little bandana'ed hobo stick propped by the door, while she penned a runaway note: "Dear Mom, I can't it take it anymore..."

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Backstory: The Third Man, a little Zither-ing, and Vienna


The Third Man Kiosk. Left: The movie version has the kiosk near the apartment on Josefgasse. Right: A tourist takes a peak inside the (unintentionally) opened kiosk. The real location of the famous kiosk is a couple of miles from the movie version.



A zither player rounds out The Third Man Tour.


I wrote this vignette on The Third Man for the Christian Science Monitor. Originally 450 words, it was whittled down to 100 for the print edition--and of course the online piece is the same one that ran in the print version.

If it had been able to remain 450, I would have left in these bits:

As just a little lad of three, Herbert Halbik often wandered onto The Third Man film set in Vienna in search of his dad, who was working on the movie.
Director Carol Reed finally gave the little guy a bit part, but to keep the fidgety fellow still while shooting, he placed a penny under Halbik's boot.
"You mustn't move," Reed told Halbik "or someone might take your penny."
In the 1949 movie, little Halbik can be seen sneaking a peak under his boot to be sure the penny is still there.
He was right to have an eye out for thieves. Post-war Vienna was a destitute, ruinous wreck. Allied Forces had destroyed 12,000 buildings, killed 30,000 people and left another 270,000 homeless, all in just a few end-of-war bombardments. Starvation was rampant. Butchers and homeless scoured the sewers daily for rats to eat and sell (called "Sewer Trout"); and items such as shoes--even in wintry Austria--were simply not to be had.
Austria was occupied by the Allies until 1955, and the city (the rest of the country, too) was divided into four quarters: American, British, French and Russian.
Among the rubble of bombed out buildings, Vienna became a hotbed of Cold War espionage and black market deals.
Novelist Graham Greene hatched the storyline for the movie while staying at the famed Sacher Hotel, the post-war playground of British intelligence. He emerged with a thriller, full of scandal, espionage and betrayal.  But The Third Man is just as easily a documentary, a time capsule of a crumpled and criminal Vienna in those early days after the war.


and so on...


Friday, September 18, 2009

Tough Day, Sad News

Some days are bruTAL, yesterday high up on the list.

Awoke at 4:30 a.m., after an evening of pacing, nervous upset that felt like foreboding (I know it well).

Left the house at 6:30 a.m. for the hour and a half drive to Krems, which turned into a two and a half hour drive. I'll blame heavy rain and fog and won't mention the wrong turn onto the wrong highway. A stupid mistake, since I've made this trip a dozen times.

Arrived a mere minutes late at Donau Universitaet, where I was leading an all-day seminar on Visual Journalism to German and Austrian media professionals.

I darted across the campus in the ripping rain and was led into the seminar room and introduced by the program leader.

One of the participants offered that they had in fact, already seen me as I arrived. Oh, wait. Let me put it in his exact words:
"We saw you through the window. We went: 'look at that woman in the rain.' In fact, what I really said was: look at that asshole in the rain."

Thus, the seminar began, with a 40-something-year-old, Austrian "journalist" (he actually claims to be a playwright) calling the seminar leader an asshole. And not meant to insult, only as means of identification.

It didn't get worse from there, but didn't get better, either. Constantly had to tell this group of grown ups to get off the internet and participate. Tough crowd. No clapping at the end, and I felt lucky they didn't try to trip me on my way out. Not all of them were as rude as "We've Met, Asshole," but about half were.

I thought the way the day went explained my terrible foreboding the night before. But it didn't.

I arrived home at about 10 pm to a family message. My father's little brother had passed away in the night. Cancer.

Salute, Uncle Vernon.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Bringing Back Bucharest

Bucharest, 1995.
Georgie Teaford had emailed ahead to say "forget the guidebooks... Bucharest is NOT the Paris of Romania!"
I can't imagine what on Earth she was expecting. Georgie was Sam's wife. Sam was a Knight Fellow, like me, and was assigned to Romania for nine months. I was only gonna be there for about one month, on the tail end of my stints in Czech Republic and Slovakia.

There wasn't much there then but rubble and hundreds of thousands of stray dogs, and I can still smell the stink of the bathroom at the Theatre School, where the J Center was housed. I used to "hold it" all day until I could rush back to my bloc apartment and... ahhhh....

But there was a darling cafe on the corner. Called Maggie's, I think. Named for the girlfriend of the owner. He was a (handsome) Romanian who had escaped Caucescu by swimming the Danube and not getting shot. He made his way to California and opened up a string of successful restaurants and cafes. When Caucescu was assassinated when Communism fell (and it fell hard in Romania), this guy came back "home."

Getting something to eat at Maggie's was dodgy, at best. As far as I remember, it all depended on the delivery guys, who were undependable. This wasn't a "No Coke, Pepsi" situation, but a no-nothing situation. Often only potato chips and a soft drink. But we'd stay until he had nothing left but straws. We were loyal, we were. That, and there was no place else to go.

There are other things I remember of those early days--cars driving on the sidewalk to avoid the lights, cars pulled up any old where and a guy with his head stuck under the hood, a belt or a tin of oil in his hand; and all the cars with no windshields, removed as a precaution against theft. And yes, when a downpour hit, drivers en masse getting out of their cars and hurriedly fitting the wipers.

And talks with Gabriel the Driver, who told me how ridiculous it was that they all had to vote for Caucescu because the authorities would check up on them. Or driving on an overpass and seeing a house split in half--the road cutting right through the damn house and the house still standing, the carpet and wallpaper still intact. I can still see that house, a two-story karate-chopped in half, still feel my neck craning to get as long a look as possible.  Gabriel said it was done by Caucescu's posse, who wanted to impress him with their initiative and speed at getting that highway built in a jiffy.

And I think it was Gabriel who told me about the maps. It was the first time I'd heard that maps were all back to front in hardline Communist countries. Whole towns missing, streets grossly misspelled so as to be unidentifiable, roads and highways leading in the wrong directions; exits missing.

A proper map, of course, would have been a powerful tool for the escape-minded. Which is why they were all a big sham, and why our restaurant owner found it more practical to swim to freedom.

Monday, September 14, 2009

On Travel

"It was like the feeling I had on station platforms sometimes just after sunrise, when no one else was around and no train was expected for an hour or more, and an express had just gone through at high speed a minute or so before, the passengers in it flashing past like the kings, queens, and jacks in a thumbed deck of cards, ephemeral as thoughts. I put down my reading when that happened and enjoyed the absence of the train's noise, the silence of a station in the countryside. To be awake in the cool of morning on a a bench near train tracks, hungry, with a little breeze blowing, and whatever book you were reading open in your lap, was a little like listening for something you thought you might have heard a moment before. I suppose you could say I felt the sweetness, then, of being alive and in good health."
 David Guterson, "The Other"

Living on the Other Side of the Fallen Iron Curtain

These days, I live smack up against what used to be the Iron Curtain. The path where "runners" used to try to make their escape to freedom is now a well-maintained and very popular Danube bicycle path.

It really is another world. People here say that this Austrian town was heaving with soldiers. I hear it was about 3,000 of them, in a town of less than 6,000 inhabitants.

Not long ago the military pretty much closed up shop here. The land the military owns is being sold off in chunks to private developers. And Slovaks, our neighbors and now fellow EU members, are buying property in droves because it is much more affordable than Bratislava.

When I was teaching in Bratislava (mid- to late 90s), none of the J students--or their parents, for that matter-- had ever been to Vienna, less than 40 miles away. During Soviet times, it was off limits, of course. And after the fall of Communism, they needed a visa, which wasn't worth the price and lines at the border for what would be a simple day trip.

The difference is stunning.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Yodel Backstory


A couple of weeks ago, I tooled into Burgenland to investigate a bunch of yodelers.
That's right. For the Christian Science Monitor I was in hot pursuit of yodelers. And you wonder why budgets for foreign correspondents have been slashed.
What I found was music emanating from the grounds of the old castle at Lockenhaus, which is nestled in hillside greenery.
It was a folk music camp going on the whole week, and a few were there to also provide a bit of schooling in yodeling.
Austrians yodel. Generally, it's a tradition more for the western than the eastern part of the country, but they do yodel. On the one hand, they are embarrassed by the caricature of the lederhosened fella hollerin' out a yodel. I guess the American counterpart would be banjos in West Virginia (I love the banjo, by the way).
And at heart, Austrians love the yodel. And they should: watch the video to see an impromptu session, in which the instructor is working with an orchestra, showing them a simple yodel to help loosen them up.
You can read my article here.




View Lockenhaus, Austria in a larger map



Thursday, September 10, 2009

"Zetori" Jams in Jarovce

Last weekend I got an email from my friend Rudi Neumayr, inviting me to come see him and his band play in Jarovce (Slovakia).

Jarovce is a small community--only a few residential streets-- just across the border from Kittsee, Austria. Although Jarovce is tiny, of the people living there, a significant number are of Croat heritage--which is why Rudi's band,  Austria-Croat band "Zetori" played there. Jarovce used to be part of Hungary until all the divvying up that went on after World War II. And more signficantly, it's where I go each week for my massage by Charlie.



View Larger Map

I sms'ed Rudi once I got there, and he and his bandmates swung around in a station wagon a few minutes later to pick me up. They opened up the back and I climbed in, and we drove around to the back entrance. Now that's the good kind of human trafficking--smuggling people into concerts.

"Zetori" was inches away from signing a 3 CD recording contract not long ago, but things fell through at the last minute.

Here's a few tiny seconds of their very nice sound (my battery was running out)--Rudi is on the right. It's extreeeemely short. Visit Rudi's link above for more sound.




Tuesday, September 08, 2009

Slovakia and Michael Jackson

Saw this poster at a mall in Bratislava.
This fall, Slovaks will be celebrating 20 years of freedom
from Communism AND Michael Jackson

Where Were You September 11th?

Lauren was in Algebra class.
Everett and Lucy were in a grocery store.
Joyce and Lorraine were on a sailing trip.
Aleksey was hosting reporters in East Ukraine.
Doug was driving past the Pentagon.
Chelsea was listening to the car radio.
I was in a Montenegro newsroom.

Where were you on September 11, 2001?
Share your story here:
http://tinyurl.com/o8lwa4

Sunday, September 06, 2009

A full moon in the Hainburg skies last night.
(FB'ers: click "Original Post" to view)

Wednesday, September 02, 2009

A Scary Story About the Safety of Journalists

Lack of posts--I know, I know. Swamped at the moment.

Yesterday morning I was listening to a Fresh Air podcast from June, about keeping reporters safe.

The guest on Fresh Air was journalist Chris Cramer. He was taken hostage for a few days in 1981 by Iranian terrorists. He has founded the International News Safety Institute.

The broadcast was timely for me, since just the day before I had lunch with a fellow freelancer, who often winds up in conflict zones. He was telling his scary tale of what happened to him when "XX News"* totally dropped the ball and nearly got him killed.

He was heading to an assignment for XX News in the Democratic Republic of Congo. As was the plan, he hired a boat to take him there (he was in the other Congo) and when he arrived--on time-- no one from XX News was there to meet him. (Bad Sign Number One: When your news outlet leaves you all by your lonesome in the middle of a hot war zone).

Instead, he was met by "security officers" who strip-searched him and threw him in jail, saying he was there to kill Mobutu.

In the evening, at the hotel where reporters were lodging, were his so-called colleagues. When a reporter from competing news organization ABC News--someone who had barely met him--asked about where he was, the XX News producer (the person who was supposed to meet him when he got off the boat) piped up with "we don't know. He never showed up."
(Bad Sign Number Two: When your news outlet can't be bothered to wonder "WHY" you didn't show up.)

At this point, some 10 hours had gone by. So the ABC News reporter took control of the situation and got my friend released from the custody of Congo soldiers. Thank goodness it wasn't left to XX News--they'd have forgotten about him completely and he may well have been executed.

*A leading international news outlet.

Thursday, August 27, 2009

Ted Kennedy at RFK

Back in I don't know what year, my friend Eileen invited me to a Redskins playoff game at RFK. Her dad had season tickets near the 50 yard line.
Sitting directly behind me was Ted Kennedy and his wife.
Kennedy got up at some point and walked down the bleacher stairs. He had on a (beautiful) long coat and a guy sitting across the aisle reached out his hand to try to touch him. A dare, maybe?
Kennedy jerked back and spun around to see who it was. He looked disgusted.
I remember thinking what a stupid move it was for someone to grab at a famous man who had had two brothers assassinated within five years. And right in RFK, to boot.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

A Difficult Adieu to Thanh Nien Daily

A couple of months ago I got a FB message from one of the staffers at Thanh Nien Daily--she'd just gotten word that after two years, the daily was shutting down. What she didn't know was that at the same time she was IMing me on FB, I was skyping with her ME, who was heartbroken at having to tell his staff the bad news.

This was the newspaper I helped start. It quickly found it's place at the top. I am extremely proud to have been a part of the founding team. For some reason, they decided to keep my name on the masthead. I don't think they'll ever know how much that means to me.

Here's the bad news.

But today I'll remember better days.

A few months after the paper launched, the ME wrote and asked if I'd contribute an article for their special Lunar New Year edition. He wanted me to write about my experience helping Thanh Nien Daily get off the ground.
A few months later I returned to Saigon. When I walked into the Thanh Nien Daily newsroom, I was welcomed with a warm round of applause. That wasn't because they thought I was so special - (well... :) )... After reading the article, they realized how much they meant to me.

Hats Off, Thanh Nien.


A Newspaper is Born
January 2008
Copyright Patti McCracken

Inside the cupboard was a half empty box of Choco Pies, chocolate drink mix, cheese-flavored crackers, loose tea bags along with two or three tea-stained glasses, some type of freeze-dried noodles and a rolled-up sleeping mat that I didn't know was there.

Outside the cupboard was a breed of bedlam known only to newsrooms. A mass of untidy papers and wordbooks stacked like piles of poorly-laid bricks, trash cans bloated with empty takeout cartons, journalists shouting commands at each other, a pacing managing editor; and in the midst of it all was Xuan Anh, whom I would come to call my Wunderkind.

A few weeks earlier, I'd stepped off the plane in Saigon and was greeted by two grateful editors who had summoned me from Austria to help them launch a new English-language daily. Thanh Nien publishes a successful weekly magazine, daily newspaper and online journal, so its street cred was already well-established. But the launch of this English newspaper had snuck up on the staff in a hurry. So they hastily cleared a room and fitted it with computers and networks, printers were hooked up, office furniture was hauled in, and a pack of young and mostly untrained newshounds stood at the ready. By the time I arrived, we had 10 days to figure out the rest.

This is my job. I dart and skip across the continents as a journalism trainer, working with reporters who need a leg up to catch up in a world that has been less than fair. I bounce around in economy class, sleep in saggy beds, stay away from the drinking water, eat questionable food, argue with the cleaning ladies, get disgusted with taxi drivers, watch dubbed tv, get lonely for home, and let insomnia finally give way to sleep amid the creaks and strains of a foreign city that has expanded to include me. And every now and then, I'm a witness to kinship celebrating itself in the guise of a would-be stranger. This is my life.

He stood in the back of the empty newsroom on the morning I arrived, waiting for me to approach so he could introduce himself. "I'm Xuan Anh," he said, extending his hand, his syllables blunted by the Vietnamese influence on his English. "Call me Anh."

I learned that he had studied in Ireland for a year, was new to journalism, and had a habit of flexing his fingers back and rubbing his palms on his trouser legs when nervous or happy. He sat and walked and stood as straight as an arrow, his dress shoes tap-tapping on the floor as he raced around. He was eager and efficient and earnest. I would later learn that he was equal parts strong will and soft heart, but for now, it was his eagerness which moved me.

Anh and I were to work together on the design and structure of the newspaper; giving it an identity and a strong forum in which to showcase the articles.

On that first evening, managing editor (Mr.) Thinh walked me over to a calendar that hung on the back wall and circled two dates. The first one was only seven days away.

"This is when we need to have all the pages at the printing house."

"And this," he said, pointing to the second date, less than a week and a half away, "is when we go live with the first issue."

I told him it was impossible. There was no way we could design a newspaper from the ground up, train designers, organize a newsroom hierarchy, structure a copy flow and coach journalists on how to report and write for an English readership in a week's time, with an already understaffed and overstressed newsroom.

"We must," Thinh said, and walked back to his desk, leaving me standing at the calendar. He had many things to do, and little time for disbelief.

So we set to work. While Anh and I toiled at designing the logo, the icons, the column widths, the fonts, the point sizes, the frame sizes,... the rest of the novice design staff huddled in close around the two of us, soaking up information piecemeal, then scuttling back to their computers to come up with additional ideas on their own.

Our working days were stretching into the wee hours, and I was getting bone-tired. My insomnia ramped up, so sleep didn't come until well after the sun came up.
It wasn't long before I overslept, and one of the designers was sent over to the hotel on her motorbike so she could jar me awake and haul me back into the newsroom.

The days were disappearing, our energy dissolving. The editor-in-chief, who also oversaw the other news operations, had lost his voice along with his ability to focus for very long, even with a steady stream of coffee and his beloved cigarillos at hand. He hadn't slept in more than three days.

Section editors were tapped out, fried, re-reading the same sentences over and over again because exhaustion allowed them to do nothing else, except skip like a record needle. There was no life outside the newsroom; no newborns to cuddle, no miscarriages to grieve, no sick parents to comfort. Not this week, not now.

I was averaging three hours of sleep a night back at the hotel, always awakened by an overzealous cleaning crew, if not a journalist on a motorbike and a mission.

But Anh never left. He was fixed there. As were a few others, I later learned. He told me he slept there, rolling out the little mat he kept stored in the cupboard. He told me it was too far to go home, and anyway, he didn't want to wake his relatives.

Doctors will say that the pain is the worst, the most intolerable, just before the fever breaks. Marathon runners say the final two miles are horrifically unbearable.
Two nights before the launch Thinh leaned back in his chair, defeated. "We're not going to make it," he said. The doctor telling the patient's family the grim prognosis.

Launch day was as long and grueling as all of the others, and I felt guilty for slipping out and seeking sleep. Anh had also had trouble staying awake the last few days, and from time to time would place some white noise headphones over his ears (to drown out the shouting journalists), drop his forehead to the desk, and rest himself for 10 minutes or so.

But somehow the page count was dropping. Steadily, each page closed. No major glitches.

As the printing house received the final page of the first edition of Thanh Nien daily in English, those still left in the newsroom erupted in applause. And the endearing Vietnamese smiles emerged, broad and unabashed. There was backslapping and handshaking and relief masked as laughter. The fever had broken, we'd crossed the finish line. We made it.

We celebrated that night, late as it was. We planted ourselves at an outdoor restaurant and drank beer and talked about Hanoi and Thinh's new baby; we talked about boyfriends and girlfriends and who has them and who doesn't; we talked about parents and hometowns, and every now and then we stopped to congratulate ourselves. I watched Anh and the others with their newfound family. And I remember thinking I wasn't so lonely for home just then.

After leaving the restaurant, we stopped at the paper to pick up a copy of the first issue, which was already back from the printer. I was headed to my hotel, and Thinh was going home to his wife and newborn. But Anh and the others were staying on at the newspaper. They would make their way back up to the newsroom, open the cupboards that held all the teas and crackers and mats. After some chatter and exhausted, giddy laughter, sleep would come.

And we would do it all again the next day.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Two Jacks, a Farmer, a Friend and a Cafe

This morning:
Five mile walk with Remi, who
1) Hunted mice
2) Hid in fields of sunflowers
3) Rolled in mud
4) Chased and wrestled farmer's dog, also a Jack Russell

This afternoon:
Met Rudi at a cafe in Bad Deutsch Altenburg. Farmer (see above) with elderly mother showed up. Together we talked about everything from Hitler, to broken shoulders, to waltzing vs. line dancing, to the relationship between Slovaks and Hungarians (bad); and drank everything from coffee, to beer, to cherry schnapps and ice cream.

Happy Sunday.

Friday, August 21, 2009

Journalistic Instincts

Fellow journalist (and real blogger!) Caitlin Kelly interviewed me and a couple of others over at Trueslant, about "journalism instincts."
She blogs every day, but Thursday is reserved for "inside journalism" issues.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Chris Gunn, Some Kids, and Their Thoughts on Water

A plug for Dr. Chris Gunn and his great video. Chris is the beloved older brother of my friend Becky (in turn, a beloved friend!).

And it's ain't all videos out there about piano-playing cats, my friend.

This one's about water.

A note on the video:
It's a must see if you:
a) have ever seen or had any interaction with a child, and
b) have ever seen or had any interaction with water.

And Becky says this about Chris: He is the Director of the Counseling Center at Northern AZ Univ; he is a Big Brother (in the Big Brother/Big Sister program), and has a very active outdoor life (running, biking, hiking, skiing). He stays pretty busy, but he is definitely a personal environmental advocate and works hard to use minimal natural resources. I am always impressed with my brother’s strong character and conscientious mind.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Eating Zmrzlina in Trnava

Dear Mom,
Please send vowels.
Love,
Pti


Some of the Slavic languages really economize when it comes to vowels. Their words look like text messages. Oh sorry: txt msgs. It's like trying to figure out a vanity tag.
There's SRPSKA, BRNO, VLTAVA...

And Trnava (in Slovakia), where I ate zmrzlina (ice cream!) yesterday.



View Trnava, Slovakia in a larger map

Anyhow, a little more about Trnava, where I went for an interview. It was about like I expected.


It had a lot of this








A little of this







and one of these.

Friday, August 14, 2009

Looking at Lockenhaus Castle

Lockenhaus Castle. Burgenland, Austria


Took a quick trip yesterday to Lockenhaus (Remi rode shotgun) to write up a small feature for the Christian Science Monitor.

Lockenhaus is famous for:
• Town square church with a way too detailed-- and therefore gruesome-- Crucifixion mural.
• And Lockenhaus Castle. The castle was built during medieval times to fend off pesky Mongols. It was later taken over by pesky Hungarian Elizabeth Bathory, aka, Bloody Countess, who tortured and murdered more than 600 women, mainly because she found it immensely fun.

Thursday, August 13, 2009

The Berlin Wall Came Up, Before it Came Down

I remember the photos that crossed my desk at USNews when the Wall was coming down.

And I remember being on I-95 near Baltimore when I heard an excited NPR reporter shouting "People are dancing on the Wall! They're dancing on the Wall!!!"

I had to pull over because I was crying so hard.

I've traveled extensively throughout Eastern Europe since then, and think a lot about the Wall coming down. But I can't remember ever thinking about it coming up.

Der Spiegel has, as usual, done an excellent job of taking us back to those early days of a confused city.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

A Sunflower and a Butterfly

Spotted on a morning walk with Remi.

Facebook readers, click "Original Comment" to see photo

Christian Science Monitor Nazi Trial Story

Just when I was ready to put the chicken on for dinner after a harried day, got a call for a tight turnaround story (three hours).

All of Germany is on vacation, but I managed to get ahold of one or two who hadn't yet turned out all the lights.

This piece for the Christian Science Monitor was a German react to yesterday's verdict in the trial of 90-year-old Josef Schoengraber, a Nazi convicted of ordering the murder of 10 Italians in 1944.

Tuesday, August 04, 2009

Austrians "Hang Ten" in Lederhosen

Lederhosen bathing suits? Dirndl bikinis? What's next--yodelling Mozart?

Sunday, August 02, 2009

The Beamans and the Branches

My grandmother with her parents, and six of her eight siblings at her childhood home in Franklin, Virginia.
My great-grandfather, Luther Beaman, was part owner of the paper mill and was one of three "inventors" of the legal pad (Camp Legal Pads--he named his son "Walter Camp" after his friend). He didn't get anything for it except a little notoriety.
My great-grandmother, Ellen, was the daughter of Governor John Branch, the first (and only) man to ever be governor of two states (North Carolina and Florida, as it transitioned into statehood).

Saturday, August 01, 2009

Spetses, Ouzo, Left Luggage

This is Spetses, Greece, mid-90s.
The hydrofoil was out of commission (strike) from Athens to the island, so I pooled my $ with a retired Greek-American couple and we hired a cab for a two hour ride, at which point I rented a row boat and zoomed across. I remember the taxi driver blew a tire and we had to wait on the side of the road, drinking 25c Cokes from glass bottles at an Edward Hopperesque filling station.

I spent most of my time in Spetses trying to avoid a creepy guy named Artemis who wanted "to make bebbies with me."

On my last day I checked out of my room and left my bag at the little tourist spot at the main port. Then I met Pavlos the Hotelier. Spent the afternoon drinking ouzo spritzers (ish) with him. Nearly missed my hydrofoil (strike over). Made a run for it. Pulled away just after I got on. And I left my luggage back in Spetses. Sure did. Nearly my heart, too. Pavlos was gorgeous.

Nearly did leave my heart in Spetses when I went back a couple of years later. Key players: Christos and his dog Milieu. Christos begged me not to get on that hydrofoil back--I should have listened to him.

Friday, July 31, 2009

More Moldova

This article at RFE/RL also does a pretty good job of laying out what's at stake for Moldova. It also touches on the political means by which the president could keep his cards at play.

Notes on Moldova

The world's only freely-elected Communist government is no longer... Moldova booted out the Communists in elections this week.

It is a complicated little country and caught in Russia's tangled net.

And every time the country tries to get back up after being punched and kicked, it gets as far as its knees and then gets knocked down again.

And it is wholly ignored by the rest of the world. Raise your hand if, a) You've heard of Moldova or b) Know where it is. My point exactly.


View Moldova in a larger map



Moldova is a microcosm of everything that was wrong with the Soviet Union, and everything that is wrong with the post-Soviet era. It has no industry, excessive poverty (with associated alcoholism and depression), a lot of mafia, and its own breakaway republic that the world ignores at its own peril.

When I heard that Eric Weiner rated it the most depressed country on Earth in his book "Geography of Bliss," it was no surprise to me. Moldova felt hopeless to me when I was there (albeit it was during a very difficult personal time).

Doing anything positive was done in a morass of hopelessness. This is how I felt about the people in the country: they were ignored and left out, so they just went around ignoring each other.

I was once walking along the street and noted that the few other people out were walking around something, creating a wide berth. It wasn't long before I realized they were walking past a man who was lying unconscious.

Despite being ignored, and presumably with little, if any, Western coaching in How to Stage a Revolution (aka Ukraine, Serbia, Georgia, etc.), maybe things are changing.

This European Voice article does a good job of explaining Moldova to the uninitiated.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Moves in Moldova?

Moldova is a small country wedged between Ukraine and Romania (I spent five months there as a Knight Fellow).
The country has the only freely-elected Communist government in the world. That may have just changed

You Say Potato, I Say Kartoffel

I see a massage guy once a week to work on my troublesome neck and back.

His name is Karol but insist I call him Charlie, and from time to time, tests out on me a new English word he's learned.

He is Slovak, I am American, and we communicate in German.

Charlie has been completely deaf since he was three so he reads lips. And he sometimes has trouble understanding my foreign accent. He looks closely at my mouth and watches the way the words are formed. He sees that the way I form the word "sommer" or "Serbische" -- is different from his native German speakers, and it throws him off.

I find it fascinating that someone could define, through the shape of the mouth and without the aid of ears, the subtle differences of an "o" or an "e." He has an incredible mastery of language.

He's not fascinated, just frustrated. No one told him when he learned to read lips that he'd also have to learn to deal with bloody farners like me.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Safe to Go Outside Again

When I flew to Nottingham last week, three of us had to hold the plane door shut so the muscly mosquito pulling just as hard on the other side couldn't get in. It was a fight to the end.

But as of a couple of days ago, the Mosquitoes of Hainburg have gone. I think they were rounded up and recruited by the Slovak mafia.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Honey, Let's Go Down This Street. I Need to Go Back to 1956

What's more disturbing about this photo: The Aunt Jemima-ish black folk eating "crackers," or that a store in Vienna has 50-year-old food and detergents on display?

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Fill 'er Up...

...So she can go 7 mph in front of you on a one lane road.



(Spotted at the "tankstelle" in Hainburg)

A Nod to Nottingham

Just back from a trip to Nottingham, a city that is the Gary, Indiana, of the UK, and all the images that conjures.

I rented a car to get there from Stansted Airport. When my meeting was over, I fled Sherwood Forest and nipped down to Cookham to surprise my sister, clipping a few curbs along the way. I'm used to right-hand drive, thanks to Sir George the Black Cab, but I'm not used to the wrong side the road. It messes with your head--spatial relationships are all off and you find you consciously have to pull the car right. Otherwise, you drift toward the left and clip curbs.

Anyhow, no scratches. Both side mirrors still in place.

My sister and family were surprised AND happy to see me, so the risky move paid off.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

...and Back to Pimp Again

This poster in a Vienna storefront advertises an appearance of "Pimp to Preacher" Jan Eriksen.

And shows that even redemption can be branded and sold.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Our Most Trusted

Walter Cronkite:

Objective journalism and an opinion column are about as similar as the Bible and Playboy magazine.

Our job is only to hold up the mirror - to tell and show the public what has happened.

In seeking truth you have to get both sides of a story.

There is no such thing as a little freedom. Either you are all free, or you are not free.

There's a little more ego involved in these jobs than people might realize.


My mother was horrified and frightened, as I suppose many mothers have been, or should have been, when their children got into newspapering.


Everything is being compressed into tiny tablets. You take a little pill of news every day - 23 minutes - and that's supposed to be enough.

I can't imagine a person becoming a success who doesn't give this game of life everything he's got.

And that's the way it is.


Thursday, July 16, 2009

Improvising Interviews

Managed to buy the only ipod/itouch ever manufactured that does NOT have the capacity to record. Discovered this too late.
Have since been doing all kinds of little dances to get the recording done for interviews. I generally record the interview on my cell phone, then email the audio to myself.
The latest: Cell phone-recorded interview was a few KB too big to email, so I opened imovie, set it to isight, put cell phone face down on the macbooks mic area, and recorded the recording. All so that I can keep a file. And also transcribe.

I miss pencils.

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Slovakia: Pedestrians in Peril

Just back from a movie in neighboring Bratislava.

Can someone please tell me why the Slovaks put pedestrian crossings on a major highway?

And why anyone dares to use them?

But maybe its safer than using the ones in town, since at least drivers try to slam to a halt.

It works conversely in town, by the way, wherein drivers see the zebra crossing as a Nascar "AND THEY'RE OFF!!!" cue.

And what's with the STOP sign AND the traffic light at the same intersection?! Europe loves this.

I mean, why do I need both? It's like using a diaphragm and the pill. And a condom just in case.

Until, of course, the light turns green. So there I sit, looking at the green light. Then at the stop sign. Then back at the green light. Paralyzed. And along comes a Slovak driver behind me, his sights on a zebra crossing. Gentlemen, start your engines.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Prost! Eastern Market!


















When I lived on Capitol Hill, I'd do the following on Saturday mornings:

1) Remove myself from bed.
2) Remove PJs. Put on Too Big For Me T-Shirt, levis, baseball cap, ratty shoes.
3) Avoid mirror
4) Leash dog and head to Congress Market for: a) Washington Post, b) Chocolate Donut, c) Coffee.
5) Sit on Capitol lawn and eat donut, drink coffee, read paper. Dog did what she pleased.

Later I'd stroll over to Eastern Market to zigzag through the flea market (once got a 2 dollar toaster that I kept for 15 years). Then I'd head inside.

Eastern Market had most anything you wanted and was wayy better than the Soviet Safeway a few blocks away (so named because it never had nothin').

Finally, I'd stand in a hot line, fans blowing above, to give my crabcake order to bosomy, bombastic black women who must have dealt with hundreds of customers each lunchtime. You had to be snappy and know what you wanted, but it kept that line moving well.

Eastern Market was devastated by fire in 2007 but reopened its doors last weekend.

NPR Morning Edition had a story on it Sunday.

The Congress Market marker (see map below) is a little off (it must have slipped when I placed it). It should be situated directly on East Capitol Street. If you don't see the markers, just scroll across until they appear.


View Eastern Market, Congress Market Capitol Hill in a larger map



Thursday, July 09, 2009

"From Early Warning to Early Action"

Here are portions (introductory) of two chapters I contributed to a book on EU crisis response. The first two "pages" are about the situation in the Democratic Republic of Congo. The final two are about Syria's Iraqi refugees. Click on the little magnifying glass to view larger.

Congo 1



Congo 2


Syria 1


Syria 2

Wednesday, July 08, 2009

Who You Callin' a Sissy?

It's not the Puke restaurant (Czech), or the Fatal (Budapest), but would you eat at The Sissy.. and then spend the night there? Or how about getting your hair cut at Worms Hair Salon...

Tuesday, July 07, 2009

Hainburg a Ghost Town During MJ Tribute

Remi and I swung by the cafe just now. The owner was closing early but opened back up to let Remi into the kitchen for a goodie. Owner said she was closing early because "look at the streets! Empty. Everyone in Hainburg has gone home to watch the Michael Jackson tribute."

Monday, July 06, 2009

Bruce Springsteen, Vienna, Gorgeous Summer Night

He came onstage with an accordian strapped to himself and began a whimsical rendition of the Blue Danube Waltz, to win the hearts of the some 40,000 fans gathered in the stadium in Vienna. He needn't try at all, but the gesture was charming, and all Bruce.
For this American, it was a great way to spend a Fourth of July weekend, with our brother Bruce out there playing and singing with everything in him, bringing everybody together.

The acoustics? Ick. Bad. Horrible. But that's not his fault.
And if you look closely at the video snippets, you can see The Boss singing directly to me, sitting in Section B, Row 25, Seat 18 of the upper, upper, upper tier.

video
video

Friday, July 03, 2009

Sweet Home, .... Chikago?

I've been busy wrapping up an article for Smithsonian Magazine--and still dealing with the pinched nerve in my neck--the neck problem or just being snowed under will usually account for my lack of posts.

The village of Kittsee has a little section of it known as "Chikago." A while back I snooped around as to why, and it turns out it's simply this: several Kittsee-ians immigrated to Chicago (the real one) beginning in the late 1800s to work in factories.

Kittsee is in the Austrian state/region of Burgenland, and there is an active club of "Burgenlanders" in the Chicagoland area.

It's called Chikago, but I haven't found any music venues. And no Billy Goat Taverns. And no baseball.

But a couple of miles down the road there is an "Al Caponne" pizzeria... should I tell anyone about the spelling problems?

Monday, June 29, 2009

technorati one more time

8re2ftgkjn

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Okay, technorati, here's our secret handshake: 8re2ftgkjn

Talk About Hen-pecked...

The things you see while moseying in Europe in a London taxi ... it ain't a monkey on his back, but still... I just wanna throw a little Graig David his way:
I'm walking away, From the troubles in my life, I'm walking away, Oh, to find a better day

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Austria's "Kurier" Michael Jackson Coverage

The headline on the front page (top left) reads: The Sad Star

Friday, June 26, 2009

Reporting Michael

Most European newspapers had already gone to press when the news of Michael Jackson's death was announced. Here, Austria's Der Standard managed to get it on Page One, although according to the copy here (hard to see in this smaller version), they only were able to get the cardiac arrest, not the death.

Thursday, June 25, 2009

Hochwasser in Austria

The Danube continues to rise. Badly effected here, but not as bad as in the state of Upper Austria, which has seen several towns and villages evacuated.
Austria--Europe in general--isn't prone to extreme weather like hurricanes or tornadoes--they happen occasionally, but not often. But the rising water is impressive.
Remi and I often walk here, in the "Au" --one of the most significant wetlands in Central Europe. But today it was not just wet, but soaking wet. Below is an image of the flooded street (leads down to a yacht club), and a canoe the forest service is using. In the distance, a few people are coming up on a raft.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Danube Deluge

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Rain, rain, rain. And more predicted. The military has been called out, as the Danube is about to break its banks.
This is a view of the Danube in Hainburg. Onlookers have come out to see the high waters, which will probably flood the Old Town Square and beyond within the next 48 hours.
The worst flooding in more than 300 years occurred in 2003.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Monks in Vienna's Rain

Umbrella-carrying monks, as seen through a rain-splattered windshield in Vienna's first district.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Dad, O Happy Day

J. Everett McCracken

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Iran and Austria

Sleepy Vienna is not often known for protests, but an estimated 700 Iranians took to the streets to protest the election. Protests appear to be taking place around Europe, including Copenhagen, Paris and London.

Meanwhile, news that Ahmadinejad "was part of a death squad" in Vienna 20 years ago slipped under the radar. An Austrian politician said he "had no doubt [Ahmadinejad] was involved." Authorities believe the Iranian president may have even pulled the trigger on the gun that killed three Kurdish Democratic Party leaders in Vienna.

"A president who has probably engaged in massive election fraud, been responsible for the deaths of many journalists and Kurds in Iran and strongly suspected of murder in Vienna is not someone capable of respecting democracy and human rights," said Green party spokesman Peter Pilz.

Friday, June 19, 2009

An "Eye" on Art

Austrians and Germans like to add charming frescoes to the outside of their homes, often something having to do with the town's history, or something otherwise sentimental. A house in Lower Austria has Indians and buffaloes, because the owner liked stories of the Wild West.

I spotted this painting on a house in a German village. What appears to be a fan or a socket of some kind in the left corner looks to me like a little eye looking down on the painting.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Bustle in Brussels

Was in Brussels not too long ago--this is a snap of the street my hotel was on.
Continental breakfast ("including fruit" was apparently the big selling point) went for an eyebrow-raising €25 ($34). I didn't raise my eyebrows, but I did snub my nose at it.

But Remi was well-treated there--she made friends with two bartenders and slummed for crumbs. She also ran Figure 8's in the small garden attached to the bar. Oh yea, and I was there for a conference.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

The Fourth Estate Rubble

No one outside of journalism seems to care about the implosion.

For us, it's a twin kick in the backside. We're seeing and experiencing, from the inside, the critical value our country is losing--and I do mean critical--with the collapse of newspapers. (You can't tweet Watergate).

And meanwhile we're watching our livelihoods, our means, get wiped out. Snap, just like that.

Yea. I get it. Not every journalist is a Woodstein. I write essays about my dog, for chrissakes.

But we live and breathe journalism. It's like a safe roof over our heads.

One of the times I was in Ukraine, I was working with a group of local journalists to plan a media law conference. We got into a heated debate about the range of the conference, because I was sticking to my guns about not promoting the legislation of ethics. This tug of war went on for more than two hours. But it was important. I was worried they would end up being hung by their own rope--creating a protection law which ends up being used against them.

Who's hanging by the rope, now?

I said to one of them later in the week that journalism was like a religion. It's a belief system, a way of living our lives.
She looked at me, stunned. "Patricia, you are so right. This is our religion."

So not only is there the horror at the risk to our democracy, but more personally, the loss of our religion and how we perceive our lives. Cloudy lenses now.

And more immediately, our jobs--and the uncertain future of our ability to make a living. My friend and colleague Amy Green writes eloquently about her experience of this free fall. In some ways, what she expresses gives me hope--in these tough times, we are pulling together for each other, trying to help each other through the storm. For me, one of the gems in the rubble is the graciousness I've found among fellow journalists during these dark days.

But I can't help but come back to the larger picture, the greater concern: who has time to fight for the fourth estate when you're fighting to keep food on the table? We need bread now, more than we need beliefs. And how utterly, tragically sad is that?

Monday, June 15, 2009

Oh, to Be in Worms

There's Powhite Parkway in Richmond, Va., which out of courtesy you try to pronounce Pow Hite, but are inevitably corrected by locals: "Oh no, Honey Bunch, it's 'Po white'."

As mentioned in previous posts, Austria has the little hamlet of "Fucking," which is really pronounced "Fooking" in German and doesn't mean what it does in English. But since it has no meaning in German, and everyone in the world knows what it means in English, and everyone in the world finds the meaning in their own lives in that meaning, by default and by delight, Austrians have named their hamlet after sex.

Which indelicately brings me to Worms.

After grandly screwing up a morning of travel last week, in which I was to arrive from Brussels into Munich at around midday---but by midday wasn't anywhere near Munich, other than to say I was in the same country--I called the editor with whom I had scheduled an informal meeting and told her that unless I could bring the third wheel to her romantic evening out with her husband, or follow them around the garden center the following morning helping them pick out grass seed, that it simply would not be possible to meet. Not this time 'round.
Confession: It was actually she who suggested she had these things to do, halting my attempt to reschedule and hone in on her personal life. She was seeing, before her very eyes, a run-of-the-mill coffee meeting with a freelancer about to turn into a "What About Bob" sequel.

After some "see ya next times" were exchanged, she went back to work, and I sat back and thought about how many restraining orders editors have had to take out against freelancers.

And I thought of Plan B: Get off the car-clogged freeway and forget Munich, and head home via the backroads. Maybe I'd run smack dab into a story. Remi the Wonder Dog was all for it.

No story chased me down and tagged me "it," but I did drive by a sign for Worms, a sign for Worms South, and then when there were no more signs of worms in sight, I decided to turn the car around and go back.

If I'd been driven through the backhills of Austria to find Fucking, dammit I was going to the heart of Worms. Such as it is.

We parked the car in the town center and took a gander. It's actually the oldest city in Germany, and where Martin Luther started the Reformation. Before the war, this city also had the largest number of Jews in all of Germany.

I went in search of someone to tell me a bit about the town. A Worm, if you will. Or is it Wormer?

I planted myself in a chair at a cafe, Remi hiding in the shade beneath it.

I ordered a cappucino and eyed the waiter as my victim.

"You seem to get a lot of tourists here in Worms," I said.

"Yes, especially now, when the weather is so nice."

We talked awhile. A nice guy. He's a student, presumably at Worms University. "Worms U," I imagined emblazoned on sweatshirts. Or "U of Worms."

Finally, I asked what about the city really drew in the tourists.

"Two things," he said. "Martin Luther's Worm Diet and Jewish Worms."

He talked awhile, helpfully giving me more info than I would ever need on Christian Worms and Jewish Worms. I drank the last of my Worm coffee while Remi lapped up the last of the shade before, uh, we de-Wormed.

And no, I didn't steal a sign.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Vet Orders Dog to Take a Vacation

Remi the Wonder Dog awoke feeling poorly. We went for a walk at 5 am, and then she came back and promptly threw up in the yard. All really worrying for me because she suffered DDT poisoning when she was a one-year-old and has had intermittent problems since.

Took her to the good doctor. He diagnosed a gastrointestinal infection.

"How did she get that?" I asked.

"A lot of things can cause it... drinking water that's too hot, drinking water that's too cold, a different diet, etc. Stress can also be a factor. Has she been under a lot of stress recently?"

Move Over, Maggotville

Friday, June 12, 2009

Plastic People Are Nosy

I'm not watching you.
But my creepy mannequin is.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

The Fourth Estate

"Nothing's riding on this. Except the First Amendment, Freedom of the Press, the Constitution, and maybe the future of our country."
Ben Bradlee, All the President's Men

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

A Postbox Peak at the Austrian Countryside

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

An Afternoon in Mainbernheim

The village (less than 2,500 people) is a tiny walled city, dating back to around 890 a.d.
Remi and I stopped and had a look around. The rain had emptied the streets on this Saturday afternoon.

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Nova is a "No Go"

My fellow writer friend, Chelsea Lowe, pointed out to me that the Chevy Nova being a "no go" in Spain is actually a no go altogether--apparently an urban myth. Damn.
But this did lead us to a discussion of English words used on products in non-English countries.

Creap creamer in Japan, notes Chelsea.

Creap is very good. Very good, indeed. But I'd have to say that Barf detergent in Republic of Georgia trumps it.

I've often washed my clothes in Barf.
Not everyone can say that.
Or would want to.

On the Road in Oesterreich and Deutschland


From the car window....

Monday, June 08, 2009

Fill Your Tank with Turmoil

No posts, you ask? I was on the road last week.
Road trips in Europe ain't like those in the USA. You never run across the World's Largest Ball of String, or the Potato Chip in the Likeness of Richard Nixon. Or, for that matter, the lovely Frying Pan Park in Virginia.
I did whiz past what appeared to be a monument to the world's largest walnut, but didn't u-turn to take a better look. Also drove through Worms, Germany, as one is wont to do when in the vicinity of Worms.

In any case, while tooling along back roads and passing these gas stations, I wondered how "Turmoil" gas would sell in America. About as well as the Chevy Nova did in Spain, where nova means "No go."

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Austria's Dilemma

Elections are coming up in the EU soon--about a week and a half.
The far right party in Austria is blamed for stoking hatred, but it's worth noting in this article, (albeit the last sentence) that thousands turned out for an anti-Nazi demonstration. This is worth highlighting--Austrians tend to retreat rather than speak out. So this stand against extremists deserves to be highlighted. And hopefully it will encourage more to do the same.

Pretty Hainburg


A pretty view of a pretty place

Just What the Newspaper Industry Needs: Skinheads at the Helm

As if newspapers didn't have enough problems--Poland has a self-proclaimed neo-Nazi running state tv in Poland.
Read more

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Bringin' Good Luck and Bebbies to Wimmin

Stork atop the Volkschule in Engelhartstetten

I watched this one for quite some time. She was quite fussy in the nest, moving things here and there until they were just so.

Friday, May 22, 2009

A Town with a View




Spent the day with a friend who was in transit from Sarajevo to Prague.

We shared our war stories of Algeria, war stories of men, and war stories of newsrooms.

These pics were taken atop the Braunsberg. I've had to start watermarking them, since there is a guy who visits this site and lifts the Hainburg ones. Of all people, he should know not to do that.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Hogs and Dogs

Photo: Spiegel Online

I do remember the day not so long ago when I screamed bloody murder for Remi to come back while on a walk in the wildlife reserve, worried that she'd taken off after a wild boar. Turns out it was a little Lhasa Apso puppy.

Here's a Jack that didn't take off after a wild boar, but did take to one. A baby one.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

Layoff Limbo

When an editor I've been working with on a story gets fired, I get fired from the job by default (the story ends up in editorial limbo and finally dies). So this is what happened to me today. Again. And it's always just after the story has been turned in. I don't know how much longer this can keep up.

Tuesday, May 19, 2009

Sounds of Spring in Engelhartstetten

Been keeping away from the computer a bit to try to sort out some chronic neck problems (but I'm still hard at work!).

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Anyhow, not bad for a children's playground...